10 Places to Surf Before You Die

Here it is! according to Ryan Curtin a contributing writer at the Break Studios the first 5 in a list top 10 places to surf before you Die. A kick the bucket list if you will of truly great places to not only surf but  visit too.  A bit morbid to think about your impending doom you might say but hell there is no time like the present. I have been meaning to write a post like this for a little while but I thought this would be great to comment on as I've surfed a few of them and throw in my own two cents. this is the First 5 we will post the next 5 next week

1.  Jeffrey's Bay.  If one surf spot is synonymous with perfection it is most certainly Jeffreys Bay. This tiny South African town is home to seven right point breaks that, on the right swell, will connect  making J Bay one of the longest and most perfect right points in the world. The main show is a section of reef called “Super Tubes,” which is a 300-yard freight training barrel section. J Bay is one of the fastest make-able waves in the world. Plus it’s in Africa! Just watch out for the sharks.

I grew up going to this sleepy little town for  holidays. It is  about  half way down the coast to Cape Town from where I lived in Durban. The town itself is everything you would expect from a Surf  town sleepy and its growth is due almost entirely to the surf culture people have come to know it for.  It has grown a lot  from back in the day  with every major surf company in the world owning  big shops there, but It still has that small town feel to it. Also there are plenty of great breaks both up and down this coast not nearly as crowded and very very good. In fact this entire coastline is riddled with world class breaks,  Transkei to Mozambique and further north it really is one of those trips that as a surfer you have to do.   

 2.  Oahu’s North Shore.  The North Shore of Hawaii’s Oahu is surfing’s Mecca. Known as the “Seven Mile Miracle,” no other stretch of beach boasts as many world-class spots in such a small concentration as the North Shore. Of course, the North Shore is home to Pipeline, which is arguably the most perfect barreling wave on the planet. Known as the ultimate proving grounds, the waves here can be deadly, so come prepared unless you want Hawaii to be the last place you surf before you die.

I have not surfed Hawaii. I will one day but not before I visit the thousands of un-crowded places I have on my list, I completely agree with Oahu being on the list but I have to admit I grew up fighting and hassling for waves, I'm over it, I am now at that point where I would prefer to search out places where it is just you and few buddies.

3. The Mentawais. If Disneyland ever conceived a surfing park, it would look something like the Mentawais. Situated off Indonesia’s Sumatra Island, this tiny archipelago offers more perfect reef-breaks than you can shake a 6’6” pintail at. Since the waves are only accessible by boat, and there are waves everywhere, the chance of you scoring barrels with only your buddies is the reason boatloads of frothing surfers return year after year.

Ha as I was just saying above " just you and your buddies" , needless to say the Mentawais have been on my list for a long time. I have done a fair bit of indo but never this particular Archipelago. Unfortunately I've heard in recent years it has become a bit of a zoo with a boom in surf travel everyone and his dog wants to go there. I have to admit it's not going to stop me because I've been to other places in Indo and know just how unbelievably vast the island chains are.  I know it won't be hard to find your own bit of perfection hidden behind a palm fringed isle.  I would Say without doubt that Indonesia as whole has to be visited before you die. It is a like they say the Disney land  of surfing without the lines.

 4.  Malibu. Yes, Malibu may be one of the most crowded surf spots in the world, but the shear amount of history makes it worthwhile. Plus, on the right south swell it’s still a darn good wave. For history alone, Malibu is definitely one of the places to surf before you die.

I am currently sitting about 20min away from Malibu so I think you will agree I am in a fairly good position to comment , I completely agree with Ryan on this one Malibu  is an incredible break when it works and world class but honestly unless you like sitting with 100 other dudes trying to catch a wave then good luck to you. but as he says just due to the History behind it for any surfer you would have to add this to your list.

5. Hossenger. Barrels and bronzed bosoms. Hossenger is one of the best beach breaks in the world, and the local French maidens don’t leave much to the imagination. For a surf trip with a bit of high-culture, France’s Hossenger Beach is definitely one of the places to surf before you die.  

Often an overlooked surf destination ,probably due to the High expenses and well let's just say climate wise it's not indo ,but France and Europe in general have some great surf. I have  surfed  Morocco, Spain, Portugal,  Ireland and England and in that order of good to bad. We had some great surf in general albeit it in some chilly water.  My call would be  Morocco: being the least cold I would definitely add this detination to my Bucket list. Tarazhout and surrounding areas with the likes of killer point ,Anchor point and Boilers combined with amazing cultural spectacle that i morocco this place is a must for any adventurous surfer

This is anchor point firing so you get the point  courtesy of surf-forecast.com Related articles

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